Alpine climbing / Climb | tomasmuellerguide

Eiger, Mittellegi ridge

The Eiger, with its 3967 meters is the most famous mountain in the Bernese Oberland. In the '30s the north face was the last big 'challenge' to be climbed in the Alps. The Mittellegi ridge is the most aesthetic way to climb this summit.

Period - Itinerary

JUL - AUG - SEP

Day 1 - we take the train that goes to the Jungfraujoch and stop at the Eigergletcher. We rappel to the glacier, traverse it and climb some rock pitches to the Mittellegi hut.

Day 2 - still in the dark the climb is straight forward on the sharp ridge. When it gets steeper some fixed ropes help us to climb. On the summit we're not yet half way as the way down involves more climbing. We end at the train station Jungfraujoch and back to Grindelwald.

*There's also the possibility to do the full ridge line starting at the very bottom of the mountain. Mittellegi Integral, in my opinion the best way to do it.

Difficulty - Is this for you?

Technical level 4/5

This is for you if you have climbed other alpine ridges, you are comfortable climbing rock with crampons, you can climb 50° ice slopes safe and grade IV rock with backpack and alpine boots.

Endurance 4/5

Climb 1500 meters vertical for 3 days in a row and hike for 8/10 hours without making stops.

Price - included/not included

This is a 1:1 guiding ratio

1600.- CHF for the classic

2000.- CHF for the Integral

Included

IFMGA Mountain Guide
All team gear

Not included

Personal gear
Lift tickets
Hut expenses
Everything else not written on 'included'

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Piz Badile, North Face, Cassin

One of the 6 great north faces in the Alps, was climbed for the first time in the 30s by the Italian Ricardo Cassin and his team. 800 meters of granite on slabs, cracks and chimneys. A great piece of rock and an historical alpine climb.

Period - Itinerary

JUL - AUG - SEP

3 days/2 nights - 1:1 guiding ratio

Day 1 - we hike to the Sasc Furä hut on the swiss side of the mountain.

Day 2 - a few hours approach and then 20+ pitches up to 6a to the summit and downclimb and rappels to the south towards the Gianetti hut in Italy. Night in the hut.

Day 3 - we go down to Val Massino in Italy.

*There's also the north ridge as an alternative climb.

Difficulty - Is this for you?

Technical level 4/5

Usually we don't need any crampons or axe, but climbing 800 meters of north facing granite in a sustained 6a range with backpack requires a very good rock climbing level.

Endurance 4/5

We will spend around 12 hours from hut to hut in a good pace.

Price - included/not included

2500.- CHF

Included

IFMGA Mountain Guide
All team gear

Not included

Personal gear
Lift tickets
Hut expenses
Everything else not written on 'included'

CONTACT ME

The Drus 3754 mts

To climb the Drus there are some different possibilities. None is easy, you need to have a solid background. The traverse is the most classic way. The Contamine on the Gran Dru is a rock route on the 6b range and the American Direct climbs the steep west face.

Period - Itinerary

JUN - JUL - AUG - SEP

3 days/2 nights - 1:1 guiding ratio

For the traverse:

Day 1 - we take the train to Montenvers and hike to the Charpua hut which goes over glaciated terrain and a via ferrata

Day 2 - a few hours approach on a short but heavily crevassed glacier plus some scrambling up to the Flammes de Pierre and then around 20 pitches up to 6a to the summit of Petit Dru and then to the Grand Dru, then downclimb and many many rappels. We traverse the glacier and get back to the hut.

Day 3 - we go down back to Montenvers and Chamonix.

Difficulty - Is this for you?

Technical level 5/5

You have to be comfortable on all types of alpine terrain, glacier, icy slopes, scrambling, rock climbing up to 6a, rappels, etc..

Endurance 4/5

We will spend around 12 hours from hut to hut in a good pace.

Price - included/not included

2500.- EUR

Included

IFMGA Mountain Guide
All team gear

Not included

Personal gear
Lift tickets
Hut expenses
Everything else not written on 'included'

CONTACT ME

Aiguille du Peigne 3192 mts

The normal route of the Aiguille du Peigne is the perfect test piece for many of the classic big mountains in the Alps. It's such a beautiful route and summit, scrambling, climbing, traverses, ridge, rappels, it has it all. A must-do in Chamonix area.

Period - Itinerary

JUN - JUL - AUG - SEP

1 day - 1:1 guiding ratio

From Chamonix we take the Midi lift to the Plan de l'aiguille station. The Peigne is in front of us, 30min hike to the base and around 4 hours round trip for the climb.

Difficulty - Is this for you?

This is for you if you want to test yourself for big mountains like Matterhorn, Eiger, etc. It's a great summit on its own.

Technical level 3/5

This climb makes focus on climbing on moderate terrain (grade III) and on downclimbing efficiently.

Endurance 3/5

Price - included/not included

500.- EUR

Included

IFMGA Mountain Guide
All team gear

Not included

Personal gear
Lift tickets
Everything else not written on 'included'

CONTACT ME

Dent du Géant 4013 mts

This sharp peak is very visible from anywhere near the Skyway or the Midi lift. The steepness catches your attention immediately. The climb is plenty of fixed ropes and you basically pull yourself up there..

Period - Itinerary

JUNE and JULY

1 or 2 days - 1:1 guiding ratio

From Chamonix we take the Midi and Panoramic lifts to the Torino hut, where we start the ascent. We can also take the Skyway lift from Courmayeur in Italy. We pass the glacier and scramble to the 'salle à manger', the base of the Dent du Géant, from there it's around 4 hours round trip for the summit, climbing mostly on thick fixed ropes and rappel down. Then we make our way back to the Skyway lift.